Sunday, February 7, 2016

Joining Skirt and Bodice

Just after I hem the skirt, I sew two parallel basting threads at 3/8" and 5/8", one set for each side of the skirt, leaving long tails for pulling. I tie off the threads on the right side of the skirt. I draw up the other threads into the approximate shape of the gathered skirt. I then pin skirt and bodice together, arranging the gathers evenly (This is explained more fully in the post Basting Gathers):


I next sew a seam between the two basting threads, at 4/8". Though the pattern calls for a 5/8" seam here, I prefer to sew a 4/8". (I could trim the pattern pieces accordingly, removing 1/8" from the bottom of the bodice pattern and also from the top of the skirt pattern, but I don't think the difference is really worth the trouble.)


Then I serge this seam:


After serging, I remove the basting thread that shows. Then I press the seam I have just sewn, but from the front of the garment, preparatory to top stitching. The seam allowance (which you can't see) is directed upward:


Next I topstitch the bottom of the bodice. This is not called for in the pattern instructions, but it does two things: keeps the seam tidy after it goes through a wash and strengthens the seam. Here's more about topstitching.


And the dress is done!

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