Basting Gathers

My mother taught me to make gathers by sewing two parallel lines of basting stitches (long stitches, so they pull up easily) 1/4" apart. The threads get pulled up at the same time, and having two lines of stitches ensures that the gathers stay straight. Do not backstitch these seams, but leave the threads long enough to grab and pull.

These lines of stitching are sewn at 3/8" and 5/8" from the edge of the fabric. I will be sewing the skirt to the bodice with a 1/2" seam because it's easier to manage. The pattern actually calls for a 5/8" seam. If you do sew a 5/8 seam to join the skirt and bodice, sew your basting lines at 4/8" and 6/8". The final seam will be sewn BETWEEN them.

Remembering that you will be sewing the gathered edge of the skirt to the bodice with right sides together, you will be pulling up the threads on the wrong side of the skirt:

To keep the threads in order, tie the two on the RIGHT side of the skirt together in a square knot, and trim their ends:

The photo below shows that I have pulled up the threads in one quarter of the skirt, from a middle notch to a side seam. There are four to do like this.

All four are done in the photo below. The skirt is ready to attach to the bodice. (It will be turned inside out so right sides can be sewn together.) I have gathered a little more than is actually needed. When I pin the side seams and middle notches of the skirt to their counterparts on the bodice, then I will loosen the gathers, adjust them to fit the bodice, and pin in place, doing one quarter of the skirt at a time.

For the next construction step, see the post Joining Skirt and Bodice. For the step showing how to hem the skirt (I do this just before gathering) see the post Easy Hem. If you have finished the skirt but not yet sewn the bodice, return to Back Opening.