Bias Binding

I use a different method to bind the neck and armholes than that given in the pattern instructions. While the pattern instructs you to use standard 1/2" single-fold binding - or make your own (it provides instructions), I use a method that I think is easier and looks just as good.

Note: If you use my method, you must trim 1/4" off the edge of arm and neck holes before binding for these to end up the right size. I prefer to trim this from my patterns before laying them on the fabric. This is especially important to ensure that the neck opening does not end up too small.

To make your own  bias binding, buy half a yard of 100% cotton fabric that has a light hand. Rotary cut three strips on the true bias, each 1 1/8" wide.

Press a crease in each strip by bringing one edge to the new middle, essentially folding up 1/3. It is easy and quick to do this by eye.

With the garment front and back sewn together only at the shoulders (but not at the side seams!), begin to sew the binding on neck and armholes with a 3/8" seam. You will have to realign the binding and fabric edge every few stitches. Just take it slow.

Sew all three bindings on before trimming. To trim, cut away half the width between the seam and the edge:

Now, using sharp scissors, make little snips up to the seam line:

Next, sharply finger-press the bindings (I use the edge of my thumbnail) away from the garment fabric, in the same direction as the seam allowance. This is an important step:

Now fold the binding to the insides of the armholes. Note that with this binding method, the binding is entirely on the inside of the garment, not wrapped around the edge. Pin in place. You may have to stretch the folded edge of the binding a little to get it to lie flat where the curve is sharpest, but it will go:

Carefully sew close to the edge of the binding, removing pins as you come to them. Trim the ends of these armhole bindings flush with the garment fabric. After you've sewn both armholes, pin and then sew the neck. Trim the ends of the neck binding to 1/4" beyond where the garment opens for the center back; tuck this neatly under the binding before sewing:

Press the bodice:

 Side seams are next.